Hi all, I am jamie from the UK. Just bought myself an 2007 Cooper s in British racing green.
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New boy on the block
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SAT and HD tuner went away!
Greetings all,
I'm having problems with my '07 MINI Boost radio system. When I choose the "Audio" button on the dash, the FM tuner and SAT receiver icons have changed to dashes and the corresponding buttons have no effect (see attached). Has anyone seen this before? Could the antenna cause this? Does anyone have Boost radio and antenna diagrams?
Thanks in advance,
Pootie
I'm having problems with my '07 MINI Boost radio system. When I choose the "Audio" button on the dash, the FM tuner and SAT receiver icons have changed to dashes and the corresponding buttons have no effect (see attached). Has anyone seen this before? Could the antenna cause this? Does anyone have Boost radio and antenna diagrams?
Thanks in advance,
Pootie
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Greetings!
Hi all,
First time MINI owner with a '07 S coupe with (now) 130k miles. I used to be a GM and Isuzu mechanic so I do all my own work. So far have replaced the timing kit, turbo HP oil pipe, water pump, L/F wheel bearing and ABS sensor, and TPS sensors (and other minor odds and ends). Currently trying to figure out missing Tuner and SAT icons and no corresponding FM and SAT radio ::frown::. Major mystery so far. Lots of time, no joy. Hope to get it resolve soon!
Happy motoring!
Pootie
First time MINI owner with a '07 S coupe with (now) 130k miles. I used to be a GM and Isuzu mechanic so I do all my own work. So far have replaced the timing kit, turbo HP oil pipe, water pump, L/F wheel bearing and ABS sensor, and TPS sensors (and other minor odds and ends). Currently trying to figure out missing Tuner and SAT icons and no corresponding FM and SAT radio ::frown::. Major mystery so far. Lots of time, no joy. Hope to get it resolve soon!
Happy motoring!
Pootie
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Overheating - just the rad cap? coolant boiling around 97 on 7.1 test
Hi all, first thread so apologies if wrong area. I have an r50 Mini Cooper 03. Problem started at a car wash, they left the engine idling whilst they cleaned it (not sure why) and I notice steam pouring out the vents. Checked the expansion and it had lost its water.
Quickly topped it up with water to get it home after it had cooled down. I did the 7.1 test to see what temperature was showing on the reading. All looked fine (and from what I understand, stage 1 fan doesn’t kick in until around 105 degrees, please correct me if I’m wrong) so left it idling to see what happens. Car crept up to around 97 and then I notice expansion tank was about to boil over so I shut of the engine.
Upon refilling again, the actual thermostat cap had basically fallen apart in my hand, the spring fell apart and it looked horrible and corroded.
My question is, could a faulty cap be the cause of this issue? I understand that the cap provides pressure for the system to help raise the boiling point of the coolant and if it had been coroding and not functioning as it should then understandably the boil point would be lower due to lower pressure.
It’s not old coolant as I had a garage (whom I trust as family friend) flush the system and re do not that long ago (few months) and he couldn’t find any issue with the thermostat, head gasket or the fans as they did kick in when they’re supposed to and he checked that they worked.
Thoughts or anyone had similar issues with a fix?
Quickly topped it up with water to get it home after it had cooled down. I did the 7.1 test to see what temperature was showing on the reading. All looked fine (and from what I understand, stage 1 fan doesn’t kick in until around 105 degrees, please correct me if I’m wrong) so left it idling to see what happens. Car crept up to around 97 and then I notice expansion tank was about to boil over so I shut of the engine.
Upon refilling again, the actual thermostat cap had basically fallen apart in my hand, the spring fell apart and it looked horrible and corroded.
My question is, could a faulty cap be the cause of this issue? I understand that the cap provides pressure for the system to help raise the boiling point of the coolant and if it had been coroding and not functioning as it should then understandably the boil point would be lower due to lower pressure.
It’s not old coolant as I had a garage (whom I trust as family friend) flush the system and re do not that long ago (few months) and he couldn’t find any issue with the thermostat, head gasket or the fans as they did kick in when they’re supposed to and he checked that they worked.
Thoughts or anyone had similar issues with a fix?
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Glow plug removal help
When I took my 2011 Cooper SD to a local mechanic to get a new battery coded, they mentioned that there was an fault on the ECU with one of the glow plugs. I've purchased 4 new Bosch glow plugs and had planned to do them myself. Unfortunately I've hit an obstacle quite early on in that I'm not sure how to remove them. Do they pull straight off or should I use needle nose pliers to clamp them in the ridged but and pull off?
Plan is to get the caps off, get some oil on the plugs, leave a week to soak in, then tackle the job after a long drive when the engine is hot. Looks like I need to take off some wiring harness too to access the other 2 glow plugs.
Has no-one done a guide for this before?
Plan is to get the caps off, get some oil on the plugs, leave a week to soak in, then tackle the job after a long drive when the engine is hot. Looks like I need to take off some wiring harness too to access the other 2 glow plugs.
Has no-one done a guide for this before?
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R56 Non Turbo Starting issues
Hi All
Wife went out to start the mini this morning and it wouldnt run correctly..
It will start.. Run for about 5-10 secs at normal RPM then rev up a little then Die.. Then cant be restarted
for a little while..
I have check the plugs and they look normal.. ODB check reveals P0012 and P0015 (both Crank position sensors)
Any Ideas? Could it be Battery, Fuel Pump, Fuel Rail, air in the fuel system?
Thanks in advance
Wife went out to start the mini this morning and it wouldnt run correctly..
It will start.. Run for about 5-10 secs at normal RPM then rev up a little then Die.. Then cant be restarted
for a little while..
I have check the plugs and they look normal.. ODB check reveals P0012 and P0015 (both Crank position sensors)
Any Ideas? Could it be Battery, Fuel Pump, Fuel Rail, air in the fuel system?
Thanks in advance
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Mini R53 no speedo lights or indicstors
Help please ! I’ve been suffering from some weird and wonderful electrical problems every since the heavy snow last month.
The speedo lights stopped working, as well as the rear heater and the indicator flashing/ticking.
Checked the interior footwell under the carpet and it’s dripping well which I presume has got into the BCM and thrown everything psycho!
There’s no point in me stopping the BCU : taking it apart and fixing any dry joints until I know where the water is coming from.
I do not have a sunroof so no gulleys to check. I’ve checked the drainage holes under the front panels in the bonnet nothing there, checked the top roof corner panels and the holes are clear.
After a few miles of driving the central locking comes down and the speedo lights then come on and it’s working fine till the next day.
Any ideas where the water can come from!! Door seal? The plastic gloss black panel on the corner of the windscreen?
Windscreen regulator not closing the window or giving a nice seal once closed?
It’s doing my head in and run out of ideas
Any one had similar problems with
The speedo lights stopped working, as well as the rear heater and the indicator flashing/ticking.
Checked the interior footwell under the carpet and it’s dripping well which I presume has got into the BCM and thrown everything psycho!
There’s no point in me stopping the BCU : taking it apart and fixing any dry joints until I know where the water is coming from.
I do not have a sunroof so no gulleys to check. I’ve checked the drainage holes under the front panels in the bonnet nothing there, checked the top roof corner panels and the holes are clear.
After a few miles of driving the central locking comes down and the speedo lights then come on and it’s working fine till the next day.
Any ideas where the water can come from!! Door seal? The plastic gloss black panel on the corner of the windscreen?
Windscreen regulator not closing the window or giving a nice seal once closed?
It’s doing my head in and run out of ideas
Any one had similar problems with
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Possible electric problem?
So, I have a mini one 2001, and the battery keeps going flat. Fair enough I don't use it loads, but I was only driving it the day before! There's also this weird thing it does where the temperature meter goes all the way up and some of the dashboard lights come on, and then they go off like there is a wire loose or something. I've only had the battery a year or so and, having tried to jump start it, it looks like I'll need a new one as it won't start. I get the usual clicking sound when I turn the key, and I can't turn the alarm on now either. Anyone else had anything like this happen, could this strange electric's problem be draining the battery somehow?
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Carbon/Intake Cleaning Indinapolis
Hello fellow mini enthusiasts, Over the last year, I have been walnut blasting mini cooper's for people here the in Indianapolis area. Mini coopers especially need this intake cleaning job done at least a couple times during the car's life. If you are auto-crossing, racing, or worried about the performance of the car, I would recommend getting them cleaned every 40,000 miles. Cleaning out your intake using the walnut's is the most effective and safe way to free all the carbon from your intake. This will make your car more responsive, improve mpg, and bring back some power to the car. I have even see one mini cooper misfire due to the extreme carbon build up. If you were to take your mini to a dealership to be walnut blasted, they will charge you upwards of $900 to do so. I am charging $450 to walnut blast Mini Coopers. I am able to work and walnut blast on other cars that have the same problem like Audi, BMW, and Vw as well, however price changes due to # of cylinders. This forum seems to have many knowledgeable and great people on it, and I look forward to cleaning your mini up and restoring that lost hp, you may have lost due to carbon build up.
If your interested in getting this service done for your car, you can message me on here, email me, or text/call me.
Email: Josh.kenny13@gmail.com
Phone: 574-361-3312
If your interested in getting this service done for your car, you can message me on here, email me, or text/call me.
Email: Josh.kenny13@gmail.com
Phone: 574-361-3312
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Alloy wheel centres
Can you get replacement centres for these wheels. See pics
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2005 Cooper No electrical power except driver window inching down when door open
Present Situation:
My wife's 2005 Cooper automatic won't start. When I turn the ignition key, the only thing that comes on is the flashing red light in the centre of the panel which looks like a 'Fasten seatbelt' warning. No other panel light nor internal lights nor radio/CD come on. However, if the driver door is open, the window keeps inching down very slowly. If I close the driver door this stops. The battery is almost new.
History:
Several months ago, the central locking stopped working though we could open the doors manually with the key OK. We took the car to the main dealer who said it would costs £1300 to replace the mirror module which controls the central locking. We brought the car back home but didn't want to pay £1300.
A week or so later, the car wouldn't start. No electrical power to the engine. Every time we opened the driver's side door, the window drop a little but no go up when we closed it. I replaced the battery but that didn't solve the problem. I disconnected the battery whilst working out how to get the car to the dealer or a garage who could fix the problem.
A month ago, I'd arranged a recovery to a garage and re-connected the battery. I tried the ignition and the car started up fine, so I cancelled the recovery. I took the car for a full service and MOT. Everything was fine, except for the problem with the central locking.
On 29th March, I drove the car on a journey of 100 mile round trip. On 30th March the car would no longer start, as above under 'Present Situation'.
Any advice, questions or points to check would be appreciated.
Do I need to buy yet another new battery?
Do I need to check the voltage to any particular fuses, switches or relays?
Do I need to check anything inside the driver's door (I have removed the trim panel and found one pair of wires terminating in a joint as shown in the photo which I have tried to attach to this post, though it does not show when I preview this post)
Many thanks in advance
Phil
My wife's 2005 Cooper automatic won't start. When I turn the ignition key, the only thing that comes on is the flashing red light in the centre of the panel which looks like a 'Fasten seatbelt' warning. No other panel light nor internal lights nor radio/CD come on. However, if the driver door is open, the window keeps inching down very slowly. If I close the driver door this stops. The battery is almost new.
History:
Several months ago, the central locking stopped working though we could open the doors manually with the key OK. We took the car to the main dealer who said it would costs £1300 to replace the mirror module which controls the central locking. We brought the car back home but didn't want to pay £1300.
A week or so later, the car wouldn't start. No electrical power to the engine. Every time we opened the driver's side door, the window drop a little but no go up when we closed it. I replaced the battery but that didn't solve the problem. I disconnected the battery whilst working out how to get the car to the dealer or a garage who could fix the problem.
A month ago, I'd arranged a recovery to a garage and re-connected the battery. I tried the ignition and the car started up fine, so I cancelled the recovery. I took the car for a full service and MOT. Everything was fine, except for the problem with the central locking.
On 29th March, I drove the car on a journey of 100 mile round trip. On 30th March the car would no longer start, as above under 'Present Situation'.
Any advice, questions or points to check would be appreciated.
Do I need to buy yet another new battery?
Do I need to check the voltage to any particular fuses, switches or relays?
Do I need to check anything inside the driver's door (I have removed the trim panel and found one pair of wires terminating in a joint as shown in the photo which I have tried to attach to this post, though it does not show when I preview this post)
Many thanks in advance
Phil
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key issues
Hi, i'm new to these mini's and have brought a little project, just awaiting a few parts,
thing to look at is the key, only 1 and the micro switches are gone, i've ordered a new key and will solder the new switches in,
However, at the minute, i can unlock/lock the car and start it no problem, but if i unlock it and dont pop the the key in the ignition within say 15 seconds the alarm goes off and i have to start the car to stop it, is this normal?
many thanks
03 cooper s
thing to look at is the key, only 1 and the micro switches are gone, i've ordered a new key and will solder the new switches in,
However, at the minute, i can unlock/lock the car and start it no problem, but if i unlock it and dont pop the the key in the ignition within say 15 seconds the alarm goes off and i have to start the car to stop it, is this normal?
many thanks
03 cooper s
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First Mini Cooper
Hi, just bought my first Mini Cooper. Fred is 16 years old, been looked after by the looks of it, and mileage plus plenty of service history. Called Fred after my uncle who left me a bit of money and I now have wheels again! Only use it for pottering, nothing major but I have my freedom again.
Very new to everything about a Mini so no doubt will need some advise at some point and that is now. Bought my Mini from reliable local garage, still in warranty. Having got back in my car a couple of times recently I have found that the steering is like trying to get it through concrete. Mini Cooper is 2002 just 93,000 miles. Looking at other posts I see a few of you have had the same problem and it's all to do with the power steering. I doubt if any Mini dealership would honour anything to do after The Watchdog article a few years ago. My question is, if this so and my warranty won't cover it what sort of costs am I looking at please. Any help gratefully offered. Thanks
Very new to everything about a Mini so no doubt will need some advise at some point and that is now. Bought my Mini from reliable local garage, still in warranty. Having got back in my car a couple of times recently I have found that the steering is like trying to get it through concrete. Mini Cooper is 2002 just 93,000 miles. Looking at other posts I see a few of you have had the same problem and it's all to do with the power steering. I doubt if any Mini dealership would honour anything to do after The Watchdog article a few years ago. My question is, if this so and my warranty won't cover it what sort of costs am I looking at please. Any help gratefully offered. Thanks
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Here to clean YOUR intake
Greetings fellow Mini enthusiasts, I have joined MINI2, to get my name and number out to other mini owners that I can clean the carbon inside the intake using my walnut blasting set-up. I have cleaned many mini's using walnut shells and it really does improve throttle responsiveness and power. You don't realize the power lost because its done so in a gradual manor. The last mini I cleaned was about two weeks ago and his were so bad that the car was sending a code about a misfire in cylinder 1 and this was due to his carbon build up inside the engine. I have another post that talks about how to contact me and some of my pricing I've given but i am located in the Indianapolis area and am looking for new mini's to work on!
Cheers,
TurboKenny
Cheers,
TurboKenny
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signs of clutch failing / issues
Greetings all
What would be people looking out for in diagnosing clutch problems? the issue i have is i have a 2004 Cooper with i think a midlands box and noticed when accelerating in 3rd past 4k rpm the revs would rapidly pickup and when i change into 4th it drops more then it should. Now this does not happen all the time and i assume it only happens when its warm / hot, also its starting to slip in 4th but no at much. Since this there has been some erratic changes in biting point on the clutch and slight jerkiness when in gear when cold?
i suspect the clutch but before i go and change it any ideas on what else it could be?
What would be people looking out for in diagnosing clutch problems? the issue i have is i have a 2004 Cooper with i think a midlands box and noticed when accelerating in 3rd past 4k rpm the revs would rapidly pickup and when i change into 4th it drops more then it should. Now this does not happen all the time and i assume it only happens when its warm / hot, also its starting to slip in 4th but no at much. Since this there has been some erratic changes in biting point on the clutch and slight jerkiness when in gear when cold?
i suspect the clutch but before i go and change it any ideas on what else it could be?
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Newbie Cooper Mk2
My wife chose this sporty little 2nd or 3rd -hand car, summer 2016. It's her runabout and I help maintain, with the aid of my experienced son.
It took a bit of getting used to the coiled dipstick, especially after an oil change, quite difficult to see the level with new oil!
I personally find the steering column controls challenging as they are so alien to any previous car I have driven. Still don't know how intermittent wiper works!
We now have a blocked front washer so hunting for advice.
It took a bit of getting used to the coiled dipstick, especially after an oil change, quite difficult to see the level with new oil!
I personally find the steering column controls challenging as they are so alien to any previous car I have driven. Still don't know how intermittent wiper works!
We now have a blocked front washer so hunting for advice.
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Hello all!
Just wanted to say hello!
I have a 2012 Cooper S hardtop that has a few mods to it. JCW tune, Exhaust, all of the body addons! She runs like a top!
I have a 2012 Cooper S hardtop that has a few mods to it. JCW tune, Exhaust, all of the body addons! She runs like a top!
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Mini Countryman 2010: Start / Stop & Gear shift notifications
Hi All
had some issues with the battery and now the start / stop function no longer works, also the gear shift notifications seem to have gone. Any ideas?
had some issues with the battery and now the start / stop function no longer works, also the gear shift notifications seem to have gone. Any ideas?
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Mini Countryman S won't start after P0012
Hi Guys,
On Sunday while I was driving on the motorway two engine lights came on, the half yellow engine and also the one on the main dashboard. I stopped and scanned the codes. It came up with P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1.
Doing some research online, I found out that, among other things, it could be the Variable valve timing solenoid or the Camshaft Sensor. I bought both parts and will have them replaced as soon as they arrive. I will also ask the mechanic to check oil levels etc.
What worries me is that the car doesn't start. It hesitates and then stalls. Could it be a bad sensor?
I remember topping up the oil a few months ago. When it snowed it did hesitate a few times on start-up but recently I haven't had any worrying signs.
Any thought?
The car is a Mini Countryman S All4 2011 with 35thousand miles on the clock.
Thanks for your help.
On Sunday while I was driving on the motorway two engine lights came on, the half yellow engine and also the one on the main dashboard. I stopped and scanned the codes. It came up with P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1.
Doing some research online, I found out that, among other things, it could be the Variable valve timing solenoid or the Camshaft Sensor. I bought both parts and will have them replaced as soon as they arrive. I will also ask the mechanic to check oil levels etc.
What worries me is that the car doesn't start. It hesitates and then stalls. Could it be a bad sensor?
I remember topping up the oil a few months ago. When it snowed it did hesitate a few times on start-up but recently I haven't had any worrying signs.
Any thought?
The car is a Mini Countryman S All4 2011 with 35thousand miles on the clock.
Thanks for your help.
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Hello from rainy Belfast
Hey Guys
Just picked up my first Mini Cooper.
It's a 2010 Cooper D (R56)
Downsized from an Audi A4 Estate as I fancied a change.
So hello!
Just picked up my first Mini Cooper.
It's a 2010 Cooper D (R56)
Downsized from an Audi A4 Estate as I fancied a change.
So hello!
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