So, not a guide but can help if anyone has questions. Mine is an N12 1.6 2009 cabrio with 48K miles on the clock.
Last week my clutch release bearing decided to melt, yes, the bearing pooped itself and the plastic housing melted.
I had been preparing for many jobs and this gave me the 'opportunity' to crack on. Believe me, this is the hardest vehicle I have ever worked on but take your time, read and watch as much as you can before you embark on any of these jobs and get a decent manual, I used Haynes. Haynes is good but you have to hate the 'refitting is a reversal' comment...so strongly recommend labelling everything as you remove it from the smallest screws to the big cables i.e. ECU.
So the clutch was the main reason but while I was in there and dropping the subframe these are the completed jobs:-
1) Timing chain, guide rails, lower sprocket, camshaft cover gasket, throttle body seal, timing chain tensioner and all guide rail bolts. Front crankshaft seal, auxiliary belt, water pump, thermostat housing. All new stretch bolts.
2) Front ARB bushes, front lower rear wishbone bushes changed to Powerflex. Front drop-links.
3) Clutch kit fitted- Valeo which did not come with an alignment tool, I used a generic one and some masking tape to adapt to the clutch plate - worked a treat. Did rear crank seal while I was in there and replaced flywheel bolts (blue thread lock needed here).
4) Replaced both drive shaft seals and new gearbox oil.
The above took 5 days at around 5-6 hours a day.
The money saved paid for a lot of tools but am still quids in. These are absolutely necessary before you even think about it:-
4 axle stands. Trolley jack preferably with low starting point, less than 13cm.
For timing chain a decent timing cam shaft tools complete with dummy tensioner. 4 equal length rods to check piston heights ( bamboo BBQ skewers were perfect)27mm spanner - slim
For Clutch/gearbox - Engine support bar and strong nylon webbing (I cut up a ratchet webbing strap) to support the engine and also to lower and raise the gearbox. A gearbox trolley jack was not required or available. New flywheel bolts and thread lock if you are doing the rear crank seal (and you should since you are in there because it will leak eventually). Alignment tool and degreaser (brake cleaner).
Torque wrench with longest handle you can get.
Breaker bar.
Crankshaft holding tool - I made my own with three holes to accept the pulley bolts, essential to get the crankshaft bolt out and back in to stage two - 180 degrees from first torque is a nightmare and my first socket ruptured! Buy cheap buy often!
Socket set of a high quality including E and torx.
Masking tape and permanent marker.
I used two long thin screw drivers to support the radiator housing when in service mode.
A 2kg hammer - the front legs of the subframe are stubborn coming off and going on again after 9 years...
Lighting - good head torch, bendy lamp (Ikea do a good one), flood light on stand.
Around 100 nitrile gloves.
Brush and pan - you wont believe the muck that falls off especially wheel arch liners.
New plastic clips for wheel arch liners as they will all break I can assure you.
Wheel arch trim clips (you can reach in and squeeze these to release but some will break).
If you are dropping a subframe you'll need a new steering column pinch bolt. Getting this piece back together was one of the hardest jobs... unbelievably hard to locate it and just when I was about to scream the dam thing fell into place, what a tease!
Camera - take pictures of everything before you dismantle.
So - as I said, not a guide but if you can wield a spanner and follow instructions there is no mystery to DIY on a Mini. I think I have saved myself over £2K in labour for all this work. The handling is fantastic now, you simply don't notice deterioration until new parts have been fitted. The clutch is smooth, low biting point is a dream and silent.
The new timing chain and guides have made the engine so smooth and almost silent, the gearbox is all I can hear now :-)
By the way, all these Youtube guides to replace wishbone bushes on the car defy belief - getting that arm out of the old bush required a puller and the inner ball joint is almost welded to the subframe! Also, be very, very sure you have your powerflex the correct way round before inserting if your housings are off the car because removal needs a bench press (don't ask me how I know).
Finally, if you have high mileage, consider replacing the oil pump chain and sprocket. I reckon if I still have the car at 100K miles I will be going in there again anyway and 48K is way within it's expected lifespan (Mike might disagree :-)
Happy days, happy driving.
