I just got my 2008 mini base and I was gonna Order some parts. They keep asking if I ha the L4 1.6L N12B16A or the L4 1.6L W10B16A I’m not sure how to find out. If someone could let me know I would appreciate it very much
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How can I find out what engine I have
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Meet ups in Central Scotland?
Are there any? I’ve come to Mini from Land Rovers and Range Rovers and they have get togethers all over the place and mostly offroad. Maybe Scottisn Mini owners don’t like this sort of thing. I live in the lovely Trossachs and Loch Lomond National Park where there is plenty of choice of locations for meeting up and happy to travel to join in. I have arranged drives out for Range Rover and Land Rovers before, i’m sure it would be no different for Mini’s (except must remember no offroad or rough track stuff ;0)
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R56 Cooper should I fit longer tensioner?
HI All,
New MINI owner here. Bought a 2009 Gen2 cooper at the weekend. I have been listening out for the 'death rattle' and I am not sure if I have the start of this. The car sounds like it *maybe* has some noise when cold, though I have placed my ear and also used a screwdriver as a listening tool, right on the covers above the chain. I heard nothing but whirring sounds. In any case, my car has the original design of tensioner, no hole or raised lip on the bolt head. I am curious as to whether it would be good preventative maintenance to replace this with the new longer design or if this is something only done when a slack chain is diagnosed?
If it is advisable to change it, can this be done without risk of the chain dropping off the bottom sprocket when the tensioner is removed?
Advice appreaciated!
Thanks
Craig
New MINI owner here. Bought a 2009 Gen2 cooper at the weekend. I have been listening out for the 'death rattle' and I am not sure if I have the start of this. The car sounds like it *maybe* has some noise when cold, though I have placed my ear and also used a screwdriver as a listening tool, right on the covers above the chain. I heard nothing but whirring sounds. In any case, my car has the original design of tensioner, no hole or raised lip on the bolt head. I am curious as to whether it would be good preventative maintenance to replace this with the new longer design or if this is something only done when a slack chain is diagnosed?
If it is advisable to change it, can this be done without risk of the chain dropping off the bottom sprocket when the tensioner is removed?
Advice appreaciated!
Thanks
Craig
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New Member From Croatia
Hi,
my name is Andrija and i am proud owner of 2x Mini One and 1x Mini Cooper. Probably i am the bigest MINI fan in Croatia!
my name is Andrija and i am proud owner of 2x Mini One and 1x Mini Cooper. Probably i am the bigest MINI fan in Croatia!
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Rear breaks lights - Problem
Hi,
on my mini one (2003.) i have big problem. When I turn on key my breaks lights also turn on without pusing break and work all the time. I cant turn off them until turn off key. This is so dengerous because when i drive other drivres think that I all the time use break. I go to the many eletrical mechanical and they cant find reason of that. Can anyone help me? What to do?
on my mini one (2003.) i have big problem. When I turn on key my breaks lights also turn on without pusing break and work all the time. I cant turn off them until turn off key. This is so dengerous because when i drive other drivres think that I all the time use break. I go to the many eletrical mechanical and they cant find reason of that. Can anyone help me? What to do?
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Breaks lights cant turn off
Hi,
on my mini one (2003.) i have big problem. When I turn on key my breaks lights also turn on without pusing break and work all the time. I cant turn off them until turn off key. This is so dengerous because when i drive other drivres think that I all the time use break. I go to the many eletrical mechanical and they cant find reason of that. Can anyone help me? What to do?
on my mini one (2003.) i have big problem. When I turn on key my breaks lights also turn on without pusing break and work all the time. I cant turn off them until turn off key. This is so dengerous because when i drive other drivres think that I all the time use break. I go to the many eletrical mechanical and they cant find reason of that. Can anyone help me? What to do?
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Steering rack violently shaking on braking
Hiya, nice to be part of a helpful mini forum.
I've got an R55 2009 Mini clubman. Love the car, had her since 2010. The only major problem I've had is having the clutch replaced in 2016. At the minute when I brake the steering wheel shakes and there's a knocking sound. I've had the front suspension void bushes changed, cause one mini garage said it was the problem. However it's still doing it. Any suggestions? Do I need to replace the steering rack or column and anything else?
I appreciate any feedback that I receive. Thanks.
I've got an R55 2009 Mini clubman. Love the car, had her since 2010. The only major problem I've had is having the clutch replaced in 2016. At the minute when I brake the steering wheel shakes and there's a knocking sound. I've had the front suspension void bushes changed, cause one mini garage said it was the problem. However it's still doing it. Any suggestions? Do I need to replace the steering rack or column and anything else?
I appreciate any feedback that I receive. Thanks.
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Windscreen Wiper arm emergency
I have foolishly tried to open my bonnet with the wiper 'out'. After a horrible graunching noise, I realised what I had done. My driver side wiper arm is now flopping uselessly. Long drive planned on Saturday, any ideas what to do? (Apart from praying for dry weather!)
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Countryman 2018 side sun visor
After seeing that the US countryman in, basically all the reviews, have this driver side sun visor attached I was wondering how come my countryman (s e all4 -2018) does not have it, nor it was available as an option when I purchased the car or available as an original accessory.
I finally ended up to the car dealer (Bavaria - Solna, Stockholm area) and I kindly asked them for this part (and I actually showed them one of the youtube videos with the part visible). It took them a week to find the piece and to order it but finally is in my hands (actually is already mounted in the car).
For anyone else who might be looking for this part, here is the part code number for my model (left side, anthracite black):
51 16 7 389 294
The price was 70 w/o VAT (878Kr with VAT).
this is how it looks mounted in the car.
I finally ended up to the car dealer (Bavaria - Solna, Stockholm area) and I kindly asked them for this part (and I actually showed them one of the youtube videos with the part visible). It took them a week to find the piece and to order it but finally is in my hands (actually is already mounted in the car).
For anyone else who might be looking for this part, here is the part code number for my model (left side, anthracite black):
51 16 7 389 294
The price was 70 w/o VAT (878Kr with VAT).
this is how it looks mounted in the car.
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Going to be a MINI owner soon!
Hi
I'm new to all this, I'm looking at buying a 2005 Mini Cooper Diesel, its got 145k miles and a 12 month MOT... I don't know any mini owners so would love some advise before I hand over any cash...
I'm Laura by the way and I'm in Nottinghamshire in the UK!
I'm new to all this, I'm looking at buying a 2005 Mini Cooper Diesel, its got 145k miles and a 12 month MOT... I don't know any mini owners so would love some advise before I hand over any cash...
I'm Laura by the way and I'm in Nottinghamshire in the UK!
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Oil Solenoid Valve Leak caused further Damage
We recently took our Mini Cooper 1.6 2010 model to our main dealer (Where we bought car) for its MOT. The car failed it's MOT on an exhaust leak and there were a number of advisories.
But the main advisory was an Oil Solenoid Leak. They said it was "Stage 2" but recommended booking in ASAP to fix because if left unfixed the oil can travel up the wires and cause problems. I think they said with DME - but I am not sure not if I read this elsewhere. Whatever the consequence a £250 fix with an updated part would prevent damage that would cost £1000's. A little perturbed we booked this fix and the MOT retest the earliest we could do which was a week and half later.
As an aside for clarity - The dealer recommended us to take the car somewhere else to get the exhaust leak fixed (to pass MOT) as it would be much cheaper to get a welding fix which they couldn't do. This seemed very honest of them. We took it to our local garage who were really helpful and well recommended. They said hole was too large to fix but the replacement part would be £190, rather than the £512 the main dealer would cost to replace. We booked with Local garage and mentioned Oil leak - we showed them advisory and also a little research on the internet that I had done regarding the issue TSB: SB-10044680-8464. Sorry can't link but google search finds it. When fixing exhaust they took a look for the oil leak and couldn't find anything. They read TSB and did some other research and couldn't find anything still. Just to add further detail we have never seen an oil leak either.
Anyway Exhaust fixed and the appointment date booked for retest came - we took the car to the Main Dealer again and instructed them to fix replace the Oil Solenoid valve (and leak) and do retest.
Later on phone call comes from dealer that although they have fixed the Oil leak it was worse than inspected and the oil had already started leaking into the wiring so it was too late. So would need the expensive work doing after all. However they can't do it today as they would need to order the coded part from Germany. They said don't worry the car is driveable and won't get any worse now as the damage is already done and the leak is now fixed.. oh and car has now passed it's MOT. They also let us know that they had tried to get MINI UK to cover the cost but they refused as car is 8yrs old and out of warranty..
Still with me... sorry for length..
I asked them if it isn't going to get worse and we aren't experiencing symptoms what is problem. The answer from here on was a little garbled and although i got an answer in hindsight I was no clearer but I think they meant that symptoms could appear later.. but oil leak is fixed so all the can do for now. They also said they would contact MINI UK and resubmit the claim now they new the oil had travelled. They said having the full service history does help the case but still not certain they will contribute.. We left it like that yesterday.
Wife is gutted as the car is her pride and joy and the whole Mini ownership has been a delight from sale till now over the last 3 years. The car was 5 years old but felt almost new and had only done 20,000 miles. It only has 46,000 miles now..
So why the post.. Well its good to talk... but wondered if this all sounds correct? If the oil leak is fixed are we just now on borrowed time? Are we expecting too much to hope for MINI to help us with at least goodwill if not the total repair..
I am 99% sure that both garages are being straight with us. Only galling thing is that we were told leak "could" be a problem if not fixed soon - then less that a week later we are so much worse off...
Thanks for listening and appreciate any advice..
PS - I have attached the original estimate to get the Oil Leak repair... Then the 2nd photo is of what we were actually charged yesterday. It seems odd that the cost is different but I only just noticed and it ended up cheaper anyway..
But the main advisory was an Oil Solenoid Leak. They said it was "Stage 2" but recommended booking in ASAP to fix because if left unfixed the oil can travel up the wires and cause problems. I think they said with DME - but I am not sure not if I read this elsewhere. Whatever the consequence a £250 fix with an updated part would prevent damage that would cost £1000's. A little perturbed we booked this fix and the MOT retest the earliest we could do which was a week and half later.
As an aside for clarity - The dealer recommended us to take the car somewhere else to get the exhaust leak fixed (to pass MOT) as it would be much cheaper to get a welding fix which they couldn't do. This seemed very honest of them. We took it to our local garage who were really helpful and well recommended. They said hole was too large to fix but the replacement part would be £190, rather than the £512 the main dealer would cost to replace. We booked with Local garage and mentioned Oil leak - we showed them advisory and also a little research on the internet that I had done regarding the issue TSB: SB-10044680-8464. Sorry can't link but google search finds it. When fixing exhaust they took a look for the oil leak and couldn't find anything. They read TSB and did some other research and couldn't find anything still. Just to add further detail we have never seen an oil leak either.
Anyway Exhaust fixed and the appointment date booked for retest came - we took the car to the Main Dealer again and instructed them to fix replace the Oil Solenoid valve (and leak) and do retest.
Later on phone call comes from dealer that although they have fixed the Oil leak it was worse than inspected and the oil had already started leaking into the wiring so it was too late. So would need the expensive work doing after all. However they can't do it today as they would need to order the coded part from Germany. They said don't worry the car is driveable and won't get any worse now as the damage is already done and the leak is now fixed.. oh and car has now passed it's MOT. They also let us know that they had tried to get MINI UK to cover the cost but they refused as car is 8yrs old and out of warranty..
Still with me... sorry for length..
I asked them if it isn't going to get worse and we aren't experiencing symptoms what is problem. The answer from here on was a little garbled and although i got an answer in hindsight I was no clearer but I think they meant that symptoms could appear later.. but oil leak is fixed so all the can do for now. They also said they would contact MINI UK and resubmit the claim now they new the oil had travelled. They said having the full service history does help the case but still not certain they will contribute.. We left it like that yesterday.
Wife is gutted as the car is her pride and joy and the whole Mini ownership has been a delight from sale till now over the last 3 years. The car was 5 years old but felt almost new and had only done 20,000 miles. It only has 46,000 miles now..
So why the post.. Well its good to talk... but wondered if this all sounds correct? If the oil leak is fixed are we just now on borrowed time? Are we expecting too much to hope for MINI to help us with at least goodwill if not the total repair..
I am 99% sure that both garages are being straight with us. Only galling thing is that we were told leak "could" be a problem if not fixed soon - then less that a week later we are so much worse off...
Thanks for listening and appreciate any advice..
PS - I have attached the original estimate to get the Oil Leak repair... Then the 2nd photo is of what we were actually charged yesterday. It seems odd that the cost is different but I only just noticed and it ended up cheaper anyway..
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Dash illuminations not working
Hey my daughter has a 2004 mini one cab. The dash illuminations aren’t working, all the gauges/warning lights work and can’t find anything else on the car not working. I’ve checked the fuses and they seem fine. Any ideas? She can’t see her speed at night and she’s worried about getting a ticket!!! Help
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R50 Cooper, best all season tyres?
Hi all,
I want to ditch the crashy run flats and put some nicer rubber on the Park Lane. I want all-season as it gets driven in the cold. Don't want to go budget, more interested in feel and road noise.
Any suggestions for best brand? They're the standard 195/55/R16.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I want to ditch the crashy run flats and put some nicer rubber on the Park Lane. I want all-season as it gets driven in the cold. Don't want to go budget, more interested in feel and road noise.
Any suggestions for best brand? They're the standard 195/55/R16.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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Slow starting but fine once running
Hi all,
2005 Park Lane. A few weeks ago we noticed it had begun to struggle to start. It used to be an immediate start, now it takes a few turns before catching and if you let off the key too early it'll struggle and die.
We've always managed to get it to start but conscious that it feels like it's labouring. Doesn't seem to be getting any worse, no codes or fault lights and it runs fine once started, but annoying.
Checked battery, no difference after being fully charged and maintainer reports no faults.
Anyone had similar? Any ideas on cause?
Thanks, Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
2005 Park Lane. A few weeks ago we noticed it had begun to struggle to start. It used to be an immediate start, now it takes a few turns before catching and if you let off the key too early it'll struggle and die.
We've always managed to get it to start but conscious that it feels like it's labouring. Doesn't seem to be getting any worse, no codes or fault lights and it runs fine once started, but annoying.
Checked battery, no difference after being fully charged and maintainer reports no faults.
Anyone had similar? Any ideas on cause?
Thanks, Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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Creaking rear suspension
Noticed our 2005 Park Lane has started (and getting worse) creaking from the rear when going over bumps. Putting 2 adults in the back seems to cure it ;)
Suspension bushes worn? Any idea on rough cost to fix?
Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Suspension bushes worn? Any idea on rough cost to fix?
Rich
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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Mini app
Since mid July my iPhone and iPad app only refreshed when somebody at home unplugged the car from the mains electricity and a few days later plugged it back in. I updated the app in the Apple App Store 3 days ago and now it updates each time I open the app! I’m in Turkey, the car is in the UK, nothing else has changed so I assume that they corrected some bugs in the update. It is also much faster than before. I still haven’t the confidence to try opening the sunroof or adjusting the charging time window from here as when I did it last at home it unlocked the car as well and wouldn’t relock it ........not helpful when you aren’t within a short walk from the car!
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Wanted | Second hand Armytrix or innotech valvetronic exhaust for mini coopers s r56
Hi,
I am looking for a used Armytrix or innotech valvetronic exhaust for mini coopers s r56 2007. I cant justify the cost of a new one, but love the sound.
I am looking for a used Armytrix or innotech valvetronic exhaust for mini coopers s r56 2007. I cant justify the cost of a new one, but love the sound.
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Hello
Hi everyone,
London based R56 2010 Stock Cooper S owner here. I joined the site mainly to pick up hints and tips on fixing the car.
Currently got an engine light on for the downstream O2 sensor, and wondered how hard it is it do/if I need any specialist tools; I've heard mention of sensor removal sockets etc.
Anyway, I hope to become enlightened now I'm here!
London based R56 2010 Stock Cooper S owner here. I joined the site mainly to pick up hints and tips on fixing the car.
Currently got an engine light on for the downstream O2 sensor, and wondered how hard it is it do/if I need any specialist tools; I've heard mention of sensor removal sockets etc.
Anyway, I hope to become enlightened now I'm here!
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R56 Electrical Failure on the Motorway!
Pretty fun experience as you can imagine.. driving (about) 70mph on the motorway when a cascade of errors appeared (restraint system, driving aids, airbags, abs failure etc).. power steering goes, wipers freeze midway and I can just about get over to the hard shoulder threading through other cars. Relief.. we're alive.. but is the Mini?!
Engine refused to start (not turning at all) on the hard shoulder until recovery guy clears ECU errors and attaches battery booster. Once running the battery voltage seems fine and looks as though alternator is functioning well enough when engine is running ~14v. Managed to drive back home without issue.. after a couple engine cycles the car now refuses to start again. Imagine need a new battery? Either that or something more sinister such as rain somehow causing electrical failure in the car systems.
Got me to thinking what may be the cause.. Is it possible that total electrical draw was too much combined with weak battery to cause failure whilst driving? I was using a 15W dual phone charger, headlights, wipers, fans, radio all at the same time on top of the usual car operation @ 70mph. Multimeter seems to think battery is @ 12.4 volts-ish. Car refuses to start (get just a click). Seeing a couple diagnostic errors regarding immobilizer. We feel like we smelt done sort of plastic burning but not certain at all.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated
Errors:
Fault Code: 00A0B4
Fault Explanation: :Error engine start starter operation A0B4 Fault Code: 00A0C1
Fault Explanation: :Driver KL50L KS A0C1
Fault Code: 00A0C2
Fault Explanation: :Driver KL50RS KS / Driver KL50E KS A0C2
Advanced Crash and Safety Management (ACSM)
Fault Code: 0093D0
Fault Explanation: :Supply voltage - undervoltage / Switching off
module 10 (SSbF) / Terminal 15 is invalid Fault Code: 009408
Fault Explanation: :Supply voltage - undervoltage in PDC / ECO error converter (electrically controlled Orifice) / Supply voltage - undervoltage during PDC
Engine refused to start (not turning at all) on the hard shoulder until recovery guy clears ECU errors and attaches battery booster. Once running the battery voltage seems fine and looks as though alternator is functioning well enough when engine is running ~14v. Managed to drive back home without issue.. after a couple engine cycles the car now refuses to start again. Imagine need a new battery? Either that or something more sinister such as rain somehow causing electrical failure in the car systems.
Got me to thinking what may be the cause.. Is it possible that total electrical draw was too much combined with weak battery to cause failure whilst driving? I was using a 15W dual phone charger, headlights, wipers, fans, radio all at the same time on top of the usual car operation @ 70mph. Multimeter seems to think battery is @ 12.4 volts-ish. Car refuses to start (get just a click). Seeing a couple diagnostic errors regarding immobilizer. We feel like we smelt done sort of plastic burning but not certain at all.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated
Errors:
Fault Code: 00A0B4
Fault Explanation: :Error engine start starter operation A0B4 Fault Code: 00A0C1
Fault Explanation: :Driver KL50L KS A0C1
Fault Code: 00A0C2
Fault Explanation: :Driver KL50RS KS / Driver KL50E KS A0C2
Advanced Crash and Safety Management (ACSM)
Fault Code: 0093D0
Fault Explanation: :Supply voltage - undervoltage / Switching off
module 10 (SSbF) / Terminal 15 is invalid Fault Code: 009408
Fault Explanation: :Supply voltage - undervoltage in PDC / ECO error converter (electrically controlled Orifice) / Supply voltage - undervoltage during PDC
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ALL FOUR EMCD Rear Differential Axle Shafts MAKE OFFER
dumb forum limit says I cannot post URLS yet so take out the spaces .. .. h t t p s://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/pts/d/mini-cooper-all-four-rear/6684050844.html
make me offer on part or make offer on entire set
This is for a lightly used rear diff assembly (comes with rear half shafts) 65 K miles and a EMCD which is the electronic clutch that controls the ALL Wheel Drive for the Mini Countryman. This came off a 2012 Mini Cooper S but fits most that have ALL FOUR.
I purchased these parts todo my own repair after our car was towed 12 miles with rear wheels on ground. Good turn of events was that the tow yard covered repairs and provided parts.
Rear Differential - clean oil
EMCD - used from salvage yard with warranty on it
Rear half shafts / drive axles, outside right needs new boot but joints are great
all of these parts fit
MINI Countryman R60 (01/2010 -- 10/2016)
MINI Paceman R61 (03/2012 -- 09/2016)
Rear Differential / Rear drive axle $1800
part number 33109806010
rear clutch EMCD re manufactured part cost is $2800
part number 33107603859
output shaft, right (needs outer boot, very small tear) re manufactured part cost is $525
part # 33209813708
output shaft, left re manufactured part cost is $525
part # 33209813707
rear half shafts/axles are in good shape, the paint has come off them, one needs an outside boot (or reboot all to be perfect) cv joints are in great shape
Jeff
612-293--nine-seven-one-five
7am-11pm
make me offer on part or make offer on entire set
This is for a lightly used rear diff assembly (comes with rear half shafts) 65 K miles and a EMCD which is the electronic clutch that controls the ALL Wheel Drive for the Mini Countryman. This came off a 2012 Mini Cooper S but fits most that have ALL FOUR.
I purchased these parts todo my own repair after our car was towed 12 miles with rear wheels on ground. Good turn of events was that the tow yard covered repairs and provided parts.
Rear Differential - clean oil
EMCD - used from salvage yard with warranty on it
Rear half shafts / drive axles, outside right needs new boot but joints are great
all of these parts fit
MINI Countryman R60 (01/2010 -- 10/2016)
MINI Paceman R61 (03/2012 -- 09/2016)
Rear Differential / Rear drive axle $1800
part number 33109806010
rear clutch EMCD re manufactured part cost is $2800
part number 33107603859
output shaft, right (needs outer boot, very small tear) re manufactured part cost is $525
part # 33209813708
output shaft, left re manufactured part cost is $525
part # 33209813707
rear half shafts/axles are in good shape, the paint has come off them, one needs an outside boot (or reboot all to be perfect) cv joints are in great shape
Jeff
612-293--nine-seven-one-five
7am-11pm
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