Be very very wary of buying a Mini Cooper Clubman 2013 model because the key fob is a closed unit and you cannot replace the battery. Battery on the same car 1 year earlier would have been replaceable at a cost of £5. I have to pay over £163 to replace a key fob when it might just have needed a £5 battery. Disgraceful.
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key fobs
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Rear Light Bulb Change
Hi Guys,
I bought my 57 plate Cooper diesel about 6 months ago. I have been lurking on this forum for a while hoping to ask questions and get help on technical stuff. Unfortunately, my first question is a proper noob one. I have a rear bulb gone (top of the light cluster, right hand side), and i cannot for the life of me work out how to get to the bulb.
Does the whole cluster come out? Is it clipped in?
I'm sure the technical questions will come but for now this is bound to be an easy one for you clever lot.
Thanks in advance.
I bought my 57 plate Cooper diesel about 6 months ago. I have been lurking on this forum for a while hoping to ask questions and get help on technical stuff. Unfortunately, my first question is a proper noob one. I have a rear bulb gone (top of the light cluster, right hand side), and i cannot for the life of me work out how to get to the bulb.
Does the whole cluster come out? Is it clipped in?
I'm sure the technical questions will come but for now this is bound to be an easy one for you clever lot.
Thanks in advance.
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Hiii
New to this 🙂 Love my mini and just wanted to learn more about what’s going on under th bonnet so I can recognise any problems and look after it!
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R55 2010 RH Drive Shaft removal
Hi
My first post...
I'm trying to replace the drive shafts. I have done the LH side, but the centre bearing on the RH side has me perplexed!!
The bearing is retained with Torx screws, but I can't get any tool in there to remove them. There is an engine mount just below the bottom screw, but can't see that that would give me much more access if removed.
Any advice on how to get to the torx screws to remove?
What am I missing?
Thanks
Rob
My first post...
I'm trying to replace the drive shafts. I have done the LH side, but the centre bearing on the RH side has me perplexed!!
The bearing is retained with Torx screws, but I can't get any tool in there to remove them. There is an engine mount just below the bottom screw, but can't see that that would give me much more access if removed.
Any advice on how to get to the torx screws to remove?
What am I missing?
Thanks
Rob
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2007 cooper S
hi everyone, i´m new here and desperate for help. I have a 2007 cooper s which i brought over to europe. I have to import the car to spain as I work here and can´t drive on foreign plates. The emission label is missing on the car which I desperately need. I have contacted mini dealers in the US and they will not ship out of the US. I found a company who can make replacement labels and do ship but I need a foto of a label with the correct info for my car.
Mini US have told me that the correct label is the MJ2009 label for a 2007 mini cooper s with the N14B16 engine code. I can only find MY labels which have different emission data .Can anyone take a foto of the under the hood emission MJ 2007 label and post so I can have one made?
Thanks in advance
Paul
Mini US have told me that the correct label is the MJ2009 label for a 2007 mini cooper s with the N14B16 engine code. I can only find MY labels which have different emission data .Can anyone take a foto of the under the hood emission MJ 2007 label and post so I can have one made?
Thanks in advance
Paul
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Cheshire/North West
Evening all, can anyone in the Cheshire/North West area recommend a good independent specialist to look after my R53 S?
Lohen are about a 1hr 30 minute drive from me. Could be a good option?
I have never owned a mini before so unsure who is decent for servicing and modifications.
Thanks all 👍
Lohen are about a 1hr 30 minute drive from me. Could be a good option?
I have never owned a mini before so unsure who is decent for servicing and modifications.
Thanks all 👍
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Side scuttle removal
I want to take off the side scuttles from my first Gen, pre-facelift R50. They are different from later models, as pictured. I have seen a video which suggests pushing up from the bottom and levering outwards. I can't get this to work, and do not want to apply too much pressure, as I am concerned about breaking any clips. What is the best way of taking them out?
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Lambda Sensors Error
Hi All,
Just wanted to reach out to see if anyone could help with the identification of the pre or post catalytic convert lambda sensors for my 2007 Mini Cooper (80k miles) based on the following error codes.
Diag Check-Bank 1 Ox Sensor 2A8B, 2AA3, 2ACB
I’m pretty confident in replacing either of them and reckon that when I can do that for as much as £100 then I’m saving nearly £200 based on the garage estimates. But from all the searches I’ve done online I can tell if the bank 1 sensor is the pre- or the post-cat. No point replacing the wrong one!
Cheers
Just wanted to reach out to see if anyone could help with the identification of the pre or post catalytic convert lambda sensors for my 2007 Mini Cooper (80k miles) based on the following error codes.
Diag Check-Bank 1 Ox Sensor 2A8B, 2AA3, 2ACB
I’m pretty confident in replacing either of them and reckon that when I can do that for as much as £100 then I’m saving nearly £200 based on the garage estimates. But from all the searches I’ve done online I can tell if the bank 1 sensor is the pre- or the post-cat. No point replacing the wrong one!
Cheers
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Hello for R53 JCW
A quick message to say hi to everyone here.
I've been a lifelong mini enthusiast - my first car was a rover mini 30. I didn't drive for 20 years and last year bought a JCW to replace my one litre sports bike and because it can carry children :)
I've been a lifelong mini enthusiast - my first car was a rover mini 30. I didn't drive for 20 years and last year bought a JCW to replace my one litre sports bike and because it can carry children :)
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DSC, Tyre Pressure and brake warning lights on
Hi all,
I've joined in the hope I might be able to get some assistance with an issue that has occurred on my wife's car. Its a 2011 R56 One 1.6 diesel and I've just had the three pictured warning signs come up. I've bought and tried a C110 (BMW/Mini specific) code reader however, although I can communicate with the engine and various body modules it can't connect to the CSD module. Because of this I've not been able to assess the function of any of the wheel speed sensors. I'm worried that as it can't communicate that the DSC module is at fault. I'll add, the ABS light is not on and continues to function (tested by simply braking very hard which showed to cut in as necessary).
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Has anyone had this same issue before?
Is the DSC hardware included into the same part as the ABS module attached to the ABS pump? I see there is also a yaw monitoring module apparently fitted under one of the seats, could this cause the same fault?
Thank you in advance. WE try to operate our cars on a budget so will often diy everything we can however I fear this one may have got us...
I've joined in the hope I might be able to get some assistance with an issue that has occurred on my wife's car. Its a 2011 R56 One 1.6 diesel and I've just had the three pictured warning signs come up. I've bought and tried a C110 (BMW/Mini specific) code reader however, although I can communicate with the engine and various body modules it can't connect to the CSD module. Because of this I've not been able to assess the function of any of the wheel speed sensors. I'm worried that as it can't communicate that the DSC module is at fault. I'll add, the ABS light is not on and continues to function (tested by simply braking very hard which showed to cut in as necessary).
Has anyone had this same issue before?
Is the DSC hardware included into the same part as the ABS module attached to the ABS pump? I see there is also a yaw monitoring module apparently fitted under one of the seats, could this cause the same fault?
Thank you in advance. WE try to operate our cars on a budget so will often diy everything we can however I fear this one may have got us...
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A JCW broke my heart - my year with an R53
Hello all,
This is my 2nd post and I don't want it to be to negative, but I've had a year of ups and downs since I bought a mini R53 JCW last May.
I think I did my due diligence and scoured forums, classifieds and dealers. I wanted a grey JCW with a panoramic sunroof, full service history and low mileage. This narrowed the choice considerable and was my first mistake. I eventually found one, overpriced, in a dealers with full service history and in immaculate condition inside and out. I test drove it and it ran well. I haggled and we got to a point I felt it was as good a deal i could get for that car and they offered a reasonable p/x on an old polo I was driving all seemed good.
Here's what happened next.
I'll write this as a list as this is in TLDR territory already...
1. Flat tyre on way home. Replaced
Then, as soon as the car was out of warranty:
2. Engine mount broken, fixed by mini1320 (who have done almost all the work on the car and are the reason it is still on the road) - £100
3. Belt slips, wrong belt fitted.
4. Cylinder head cracks, leaking coolant into oil. JCW cylinder head made for me by machining new standard head (ported and polished at this time), top end rebuild - cost - £1450 + service £200
5. Car always lurches when pulling off - tried absolutely everything - still no solution
6. Tyres worn down to canvas on inside edge. All tyres replaced - £450
7. 17% pulley, belt and intercooler fitted, subframe polybrushed - car runs well for a month (!)
8. Metallic knocking in steering - pipes wrongly fitted, pipes refitted and fluid replaced. - £150
9. Brakes upgraded to painted R56 calipers and discs - £450
10. It snows, tyres don't cope. Crash into wooden post at 20 mph, bumper cracked. £300 to replace all parts, including paint.
11. Clutch goes, replaced - £600
12. Power steering pump goes, replaced - £300
13. stage 2 tune to try to fix lurch. Fast road cam fitted. Car faster, still lurches - £1100
14. Cam chain rattle, replace tensioner
15. Cam chain assembly replaced, another service - £450
16. Centre section of miltek baffle goes, rattling like crazy (replacement on its way) - £550
17. Lurch fixed by addition of polybrush to lower mount. Starts lurching again the next day
18. Car loses power and won't idle. MSD coil pack is the culprit, OEM part replaced.
19. Cam chain rattle returns
20. New weird sound suspect oil pressure and or crank bearings. Need to book another trip to 1320
Anyone else here experienced this? I love my mini, but it doesn't love me....:crying:
I can't afford to keep it. I can't afford to sell it!
Anyone with any ideas of how to fix this &*%^&$$! lurch will be my new hero.
Thanks for listening.
This is my 2nd post and I don't want it to be to negative, but I've had a year of ups and downs since I bought a mini R53 JCW last May.
I think I did my due diligence and scoured forums, classifieds and dealers. I wanted a grey JCW with a panoramic sunroof, full service history and low mileage. This narrowed the choice considerable and was my first mistake. I eventually found one, overpriced, in a dealers with full service history and in immaculate condition inside and out. I test drove it and it ran well. I haggled and we got to a point I felt it was as good a deal i could get for that car and they offered a reasonable p/x on an old polo I was driving all seemed good.
Here's what happened next.
I'll write this as a list as this is in TLDR territory already...
1. Flat tyre on way home. Replaced
Then, as soon as the car was out of warranty:
2. Engine mount broken, fixed by mini1320 (who have done almost all the work on the car and are the reason it is still on the road) - £100
3. Belt slips, wrong belt fitted.
4. Cylinder head cracks, leaking coolant into oil. JCW cylinder head made for me by machining new standard head (ported and polished at this time), top end rebuild - cost - £1450 + service £200
5. Car always lurches when pulling off - tried absolutely everything - still no solution
6. Tyres worn down to canvas on inside edge. All tyres replaced - £450
7. 17% pulley, belt and intercooler fitted, subframe polybrushed - car runs well for a month (!)
8. Metallic knocking in steering - pipes wrongly fitted, pipes refitted and fluid replaced. - £150
9. Brakes upgraded to painted R56 calipers and discs - £450
10. It snows, tyres don't cope. Crash into wooden post at 20 mph, bumper cracked. £300 to replace all parts, including paint.
11. Clutch goes, replaced - £600
12. Power steering pump goes, replaced - £300
13. stage 2 tune to try to fix lurch. Fast road cam fitted. Car faster, still lurches - £1100
14. Cam chain rattle, replace tensioner
15. Cam chain assembly replaced, another service - £450
16. Centre section of miltek baffle goes, rattling like crazy (replacement on its way) - £550
17. Lurch fixed by addition of polybrush to lower mount. Starts lurching again the next day
18. Car loses power and won't idle. MSD coil pack is the culprit, OEM part replaced.
19. Cam chain rattle returns
20. New weird sound suspect oil pressure and or crank bearings. Need to book another trip to 1320
Anyone else here experienced this? I love my mini, but it doesn't love me....:crying:
I can't afford to keep it. I can't afford to sell it!
Anyone with any ideas of how to fix this &*%^&$$! lurch will be my new hero.
Thanks for listening.
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No Voltage to pre cat 02 sensor
Hi All,
Engine management light has came on, scanned codes and got
2A8B - Oxygen sensor before CAT Calibration Cable
2A63 - Oxygen sensor Heating before CAT Activation
I immediately checked for 12v feed to the sensor as i suspect a heater circuit issue.. voltage supply was minimal around 1.3 volts. I back probed all the way to the ECU and just before the plug i was still only getting 1.3 volts. A continuity test confirmed the loom from ECU to sensor was good.
I decided to check the power to the rear 02 sensor and this was 14.3 with engine running.. Obviously i have a power supply issue the front sensor but is right that im getting alternator voltage to the rear? Shouldn't it be controlled by a regulator of some sort and just supply a steady 12v. All fuses seem ok.
Is it common for the ECU to go down? or would it stop voltage supply to both sensors? Are they on the same circuit?
Would appreciate any advice or help to eliminate possible causes.
Thanks
Engine management light has came on, scanned codes and got
2A8B - Oxygen sensor before CAT Calibration Cable
2A63 - Oxygen sensor Heating before CAT Activation
I immediately checked for 12v feed to the sensor as i suspect a heater circuit issue.. voltage supply was minimal around 1.3 volts. I back probed all the way to the ECU and just before the plug i was still only getting 1.3 volts. A continuity test confirmed the loom from ECU to sensor was good.
I decided to check the power to the rear 02 sensor and this was 14.3 with engine running.. Obviously i have a power supply issue the front sensor but is right that im getting alternator voltage to the rear? Shouldn't it be controlled by a regulator of some sort and just supply a steady 12v. All fuses seem ok.
Is it common for the ECU to go down? or would it stop voltage supply to both sensors? Are they on the same circuit?
Would appreciate any advice or help to eliminate possible causes.
Thanks
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Stiff gear changes on a Mini Cooper 2003
Hi, I'm 18 and I bought my first car today. It was a Mini Cooper 1.6 2003. Its a great car, very fast and feels great on the road. I got the car cheap and I knew the gearbox was a bit stiff when changing into 1st, 2nd and reverse gears. It is possible to get it in but you have to put a bit more into getting it into gear, which is slightly frustrating haha. I'm just wondering what the issue could be. Im not too fussed if its a big problem as I got the car for a steal from a lovely lady. I will be taking it to my mechanic next week but just wanted to get some ideas from people on what it could be! Also I'm not sure if the 2003 Cooper has the digital MPH display or not? I cant seem to get it to switch to it if it is there (Maybe a faulty button) As I did do a test on the cars system and it was flickering through everything and for a short second showed a MPH display ha. Also the drivers side window doesnt seem to want to go down but I can hear the motor attempting to do something.
Thanks :)
Thanks :)
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Hello from Wales (UK)
Hi all from everywhere, just bought a 2015 R59 Cooper S/JCW in Ice Silver with 8000miles on the clock, I had the JCW sports package installed by Mini and just started to replace all the chrome. So far no problems but have noticed that I get less cracks/pops with this new JCW exhaust. Just a shame you can't fit the JCW pro exhaust system with the Bluetooth flap. Has anyone replaced the original head unit with a sat nav head unit?
Cheers gmac
Cheers gmac
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Mini Woes - Airlock?
Hi all,
New member here!
I recently purchased a 2004 Mini Cooper S with JCW kit. Fantastic car when working however I have some issues.. these are the symptoms:
- No warm air from heaters, I'd barely even call it lukewarm
- Losing coolant, requiring top up a couple of times a week
- Car fans come on more often than I'd expect, presumed overheating and evidence of coolant spill but temp never reads over mid way
- Low pressure oil warning appears when idling after car is warmed up, goes away over 1000 RPM
- Car seems to be a little hesitant on start-up but hasn't failed to start
The previous owner replaced the expansion tank right before I got it so I suspect the first three issues may be due to an airlock. I've tried bleeding the system but to no avail, I've read so many different methods to do it but have had no success. I think the airlock is in the hose near the heater matrix but have no idea where it is. Does anyone know of a way to easily and definitely remove an airlock from this area? I'm not technically gifted so the simpler method the better!
The last two issues I fear are not related but thought it could be that the oil is too hot so pressure is low and so it could be due to the above? Weirdly I've checked the dipstick and there is oil further up the stick than max, also the dipstick feels like it crunches and I have to give it a good push to get the last 1/4 in, is that normal?
Any thoughts or help appreciated!
New member here!
I recently purchased a 2004 Mini Cooper S with JCW kit. Fantastic car when working however I have some issues.. these are the symptoms:
- No warm air from heaters, I'd barely even call it lukewarm
- Losing coolant, requiring top up a couple of times a week
- Car fans come on more often than I'd expect, presumed overheating and evidence of coolant spill but temp never reads over mid way
- Low pressure oil warning appears when idling after car is warmed up, goes away over 1000 RPM
- Car seems to be a little hesitant on start-up but hasn't failed to start
The previous owner replaced the expansion tank right before I got it so I suspect the first three issues may be due to an airlock. I've tried bleeding the system but to no avail, I've read so many different methods to do it but have had no success. I think the airlock is in the hose near the heater matrix but have no idea where it is. Does anyone know of a way to easily and definitely remove an airlock from this area? I'm not technically gifted so the simpler method the better!
The last two issues I fear are not related but thought it could be that the oil is too hot so pressure is low and so it could be due to the above? Weirdly I've checked the dipstick and there is oil further up the stick than max, also the dipstick feels like it crunches and I have to give it a good push to get the last 1/4 in, is that normal?
Any thoughts or help appreciated!
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Not help
I've only had my mini 4 months and had a world of problems with it but long story short I'm worried it won't go through it's not and I'll have to sell it spare repair and lose out big time.
The break warning light is on but I've changed the lads since I got the car just don't have the tech to update the system.... if I tell the garage do you think they will still fail it?
More seriously after an oil change the new filer was put in the wrong way and caused a major leek this has now been resolved. But the oil warning light comes on intermitantly but it's not loosing oil.... although I am aware this could be a pressure problem as I haven't been driving it enough to really see what the oil is doing truly and could cause the whole engine to go.
It could just need a new sensor but again just for the intermittent light is this a fail?
Also anyone got any suggestions or anyone had these problems and found solutions.
I really don't want to loose the car but if it needs an engine strip I just can't afford it
The break warning light is on but I've changed the lads since I got the car just don't have the tech to update the system.... if I tell the garage do you think they will still fail it?
More seriously after an oil change the new filer was put in the wrong way and caused a major leek this has now been resolved. But the oil warning light comes on intermitantly but it's not loosing oil.... although I am aware this could be a pressure problem as I haven't been driving it enough to really see what the oil is doing truly and could cause the whole engine to go.
It could just need a new sensor but again just for the intermittent light is this a fail?
Also anyone got any suggestions or anyone had these problems and found solutions.
I really don't want to loose the car but if it needs an engine strip I just can't afford it
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ABS /DSC problem
I am trying to help my son sort out his r53 cooper s I hope someone can help
The problem is the abs and dcs lights are on
so i thought... get a code reader, Ihave tried the Creator c310 and c110 but there seemed to be a communication issue with the abs/dsc modue with both these. So i tried the Inpa tool and again there was a communication problem with this tool as well. just want to say all the readers could read other systems on the car.
so i assumed it was the abs control / pump that was the problem so i removed it and had it tested and it was ok. in fact when i put it back on the car the fault code had been cleared and the lights had gone out. But alas half a mile down the road the abs and stability control lights came on again.
I am now pulling my hair out to what could be the problem. I need to find out whats causing the issue but i cant get any info from the abs ecu..... does anyone have any ideas???
The problem is the abs and dcs lights are on
so i thought... get a code reader, Ihave tried the Creator c310 and c110 but there seemed to be a communication issue with the abs/dsc modue with both these. So i tried the Inpa tool and again there was a communication problem with this tool as well. just want to say all the readers could read other systems on the car.
so i assumed it was the abs control / pump that was the problem so i removed it and had it tested and it was ok. in fact when i put it back on the car the fault code had been cleared and the lights had gone out. But alas half a mile down the road the abs and stability control lights came on again.
I am now pulling my hair out to what could be the problem. I need to find out whats causing the issue but i cant get any info from the abs ecu..... does anyone have any ideas???
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Hello From Houston Texas
Hello fellow enthusiasts. This is my first mini. I have lots of work to do to make this car reliable. It only has 75K miles on it but suffers from all the normal Mini issues. The car is all apart in my garage as I write doing new gaskets, supercharger oil, thermostat housing, and motor mount....and belt tensioner.....so I'm gonna have some questions when I run into trouble. I'm a very experienced mechanic but I'm a Mustang guy....I've restored many classic cars....but this is my first Mini and have to learn the car.
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I need help identifying a front end noise
I have a noise coming from the front passenger side of the car. It is a clank I suppose as it sounds metallic. It kind of reminds me of a heim joint noise on a race car. It happens at very low speeds too. I hear this noise just coming off the inch and a half drop backing out of the garage or entering or leaving the driveway.
The car has 75K miles. The struts are new as are the strut mounts. The hydraulic engine mount is totally shot and I have one on order but didn't know if this could contribute to such a noise. Tires are old, bald, and hard but I have brand new ones and brand new rims as soon as I get the car back together from servicing the supercharger oil and fixing oil leaks.
I have checked the front suspension but can't find any looseness or worn parts but it is such a stiff suspension I may not be doing it right so in there are any suggestions on how to go about checking these parts the car is already on the jack stands with the tires off.
I would like to identify and fix this while I have the car up and apart. I plan on taking it to Atlanta GA in three weeks so I don't want to do work I don't need to be doing so I don't want to simply replace the entire front suspension if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance guys......I'm a Mustang guy....this is my first Mini so I'm a NEWB when I'm used to being the expert!
The car has 75K miles. The struts are new as are the strut mounts. The hydraulic engine mount is totally shot and I have one on order but didn't know if this could contribute to such a noise. Tires are old, bald, and hard but I have brand new ones and brand new rims as soon as I get the car back together from servicing the supercharger oil and fixing oil leaks.
I have checked the front suspension but can't find any looseness or worn parts but it is such a stiff suspension I may not be doing it right so in there are any suggestions on how to go about checking these parts the car is already on the jack stands with the tires off.
I would like to identify and fix this while I have the car up and apart. I plan on taking it to Atlanta GA in three weeks so I don't want to do work I don't need to be doing so I don't want to simply replace the entire front suspension if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance guys......I'm a Mustang guy....this is my first Mini so I'm a NEWB when I'm used to being the expert!
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Squeeking Noise and Internal dent on engine
Hi All,
I've had my r56 Cooper since march (first car). I noticed when I pulled onto my drive the other day that there was a squealing/squeaking noise when I was idling which stopped as soon as I switched the engine off..
I had a look under the bonnet but I have no idea what I'm doing.... I noticed the noise is coming from that metal box on the front of the engine - which coincidentally has a dent made from the inside out and has slightly broken open!
Anybody know what it might be and is it safe to drive?
I've added a youtube link of it - hope that's allowed? youtube.com/watch?v=MqruUl-Cs5Y
Thanks in advance!
I've had my r56 Cooper since march (first car). I noticed when I pulled onto my drive the other day that there was a squealing/squeaking noise when I was idling which stopped as soon as I switched the engine off..
I had a look under the bonnet but I have no idea what I'm doing.... I noticed the noise is coming from that metal box on the front of the engine - which coincidentally has a dent made from the inside out and has slightly broken open!
Anybody know what it might be and is it safe to drive?
I've added a youtube link of it - hope that's allowed? youtube.com/watch?v=MqruUl-Cs5Y
Thanks in advance!
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